Bonjour à tous,
It figures that the very same day Alex published his guest post, I finally have a spare evening to work on my blog. It's raining (as they say in Normandy,
"il pleut comme vaches qui pissent" - I'll leave the translation to you), it's 4pm, and Alex won't be home until after 10pm tonight - all the makings for a cozy night of blog writing. Despite all his stories, I still have a lot of ground to cover, so I'm just going to jump right in:
1)
We are always discovering little differences between France & Canada. Last month, we went out a couple of times with colleagues from Alex's lab, and I started to notice a few things:
- Everyone smokes. Smoking is cool here. Everyone does it. The rich, the poor, the classy, the educated, the homeless. Plus, everyone rolls their own cigarettes (I think maybe because it's cheaper). You'll see people rolling their cigarettes on the tram, getting ready for the moment they step outside for that breath of (fresh??) air. At work, my (adult) students can't wait for their coffee (i.e., espresso) and cigarette break. I feel like a bit of a goodie two-shoes being a non-smoker here, but I value my health. So be it.
- Everyone wears black. Always. On the tram, to school, at work, and especially at the bar. If they're not wearing black, they're wearing white, grey or tan. At one bar, I spotted exactly one girl wearing a blue shirt. As you can imagine, I stand out like a sore thumb with my fire engine red peacoat, but I don't mind one bit. I like colour. Wearing black all the time is so boring. However, I have to admit that I did wear all black (which I have never done before!) last time I went to the bar. I didn't want to stand out too much. Speaking of fashion...
- French girls do not dress like North American girls. Not only do they not wear much colour, but they also don't wear what we think of as "bar clothes" when they go out. In fact, everyone is pretty well all covered up. Tiny tops with tons of cleavage and tight skirts are not really a thing here. All the girls wear black sweaters and dangly earrings, wear their long hair down, and frankly, look cool as hell. I think maybe North Americans could take a page from their book (and just add a splash of colour here and there).
- Everyone kisses everyone on both cheeks. This may be a stereotype, but it's true. It's not uncommon to be walking behind someone on the staircase at school, only to have them stop dead in their tracks to kiss a friend who they have run into - in the middle of the staircase! I never know whether to go around them or wait for a kiss myself - after all, everyone kisses everyone. An example: when we met friends of Alex's colleagues at the bar (i.e., friends of acquaintances - the most distant possible relationship), every one of them kissed us on both cheeks when we were introduced, despite the fact that they never spoke to us again the whole night. What ever happened to a friendly handshake, or *gasp* a polite smile while keeping your hands in your pockets? I still get caught off guard when this happens - even though my Jewish relatives utilize the one-cheek kiss method. It's somehow different when it's someone your own age who you don't know. C'est la vie.
- Everyone hangs out outside, even in though it's winter. It's not exactly freezing here, but when it's between 0-10°C, the last thing I want to do is "enjoy" a meal outside (is that even possible?). However, in Normandy, all the patios are open in the winter, and it's extremely common to eat a meal or have a beer on an outside patio in the middle of winter. When we met some of Alex's colleagues for beers a few weeks ago, I was surprised to find that they had willingly chosen an outside table, and were planning to stay there for the night. Alex says the eating/drinking outside occurs because everyone smokes, so they want to be able to do so at leisure (refer to bullet point #1). This is in stark contrast to the undergrads back in Canada who leave their coats at home, stand in line for the bar freezing, and then run into the bar in a tiny bar top and/or skirt in the middle of winter so that they don't have to pay for coat check. Good thing I grew up and brought my coat this time, because I never would have expected to spend an evening drinking outside in January!
- Bars serve classy food. Like at home, most real "bars" (i.e., not pub-restaurants) don't serve much food, but they have to sell something to comply with the law. Usually they have pizza, chips, peanuts, or something cheap like that. In France that would hardly pass as real "food", and naturally they serve fancy cheese and charcuterie at bars that otherwise serve only alcohol. For about 5 or 6 €, you can get a platter with sliced baguette and really nice French cheese (sometimes there's a whole selection) or fancy sausages. It's very classy, especially when you consider that it comes with a nice cheese knife; whereas, at home you'd be hard-pressed to get a cocktail in a real glass at certain bars (think: vodka and cranberry in a plastic cup). One bar we went to even served beer in wine glasses. The French really know how to party. Or do they...? (see next point).
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| Beer served with charcuterie and fromage |
- Ambuscade/Embuscade is gross and should not pass as a cocktail. The Caennais (i.e. residents of Caen) drink a local cocktail called Ambruscade/Embruscade, which is a mixture of white wine, beer, calvados (the local apple brandy) and cassis (blackcurrant) syrup. The word "ambuscade" literally means "ambush", and it's clear where the name came from, because it's strong, sweet, and disgusting. And the students drink it by the pitcher.
- Speaking of drinking, no one drinks water here. The university doesn't have water fountains, nor do malls or airports. Only the international students in my French class carry water bottles, and I've never seen a French person carry one, or drink more than a small juice glass-sized cup of water with lunch. Similarly, a travel mug is completely unheard of - probably because everyone drinks espresso. Apparently caffeine, rather than water, runs through the veins of the French...might make for an interesting research topic. By the way, I've started drinking espresso too. I've totally given up on trying to order coffee with milk. [Going to London this past weekend was such a treat: I had so many lattes. They were big. They were milky. And I got to sip them for more than 3 minutes. It was heaven.] Anyways, I'm staying hydrated and continue to carry my water bottle everywhere, despite how strange that makes me appear. Case in point: when I was teaching last week I took a sip from my water bottle and a student asked me what I was drinking (did he think I was sipping a bottle of liquor?? I'm not really sure...). Similarly, at the airport this weekend I had my bag searched due to the presence of my (empty) metal water bottle. Apparently it's a pretty suspicious thing around here!!
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| France being classy: the beer I ordered was served in a wine glass |
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| France being unclassy: white wine in Tetra packs at the grocery store |
Now that my post is already super long, it's time to fill you in on some of our other adventures over the last month or two. Here we go:
2)
I discovered a botanical garden downtown Caen. It's about a 10 minute walk from the university, and it's really a little piece of heaven to step into the greenhouse and feel like you are in the tropics in the middle of winter. I plan to go back frequently in the spring and summer when all the flowers are blooming!
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| A mini waterfall at the botanical gardens in winter |
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| Palm trees are a welcome sight in the winter! |
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| Daffodils in the botanical garden (and all over the city!) in February |
3)
Valentine's Day baking is fun. I won't bore you with the details of our weekend, which involved shopping, relaxation, board games and mediocre crêpes (Valentine's Day menus are always a rip-off; when will I learn?). One amusing detail is that Alex and I both had the same idea to surprise each other with a Valentine's Day activity: cookie baking. [While writing, I actually just thought
"la même idée" - I really am starting to think in French, little by little!] We went to two different grocery store chains on the same night, bought the same ingredients, and ended up with two identical bottles of vanilla. With all the
boulangeries around here there is rarely a reason to bake, but I now have a lot of baking to do, as our double grocery shop resulted in quite a surplus of baking supplies! Although we only made simple sugar cookies, they were particularly delicious ones, and I'll be bookmarking the recipe. We still have a few in the freezer, because despite cutting the recipe in half we ended up with 60 cookies for two people. Yum!!
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| Valentine's Day sugar cookies |
4)
This weekend we went to London (and had a much-needed break from France). Although I
love living in France, I have to admit that it was kind of nice to step onto the "tube" (i.e., subway) and hear people speaking English...and eating on the go...and wearing colours. Those things
never happen in France. Alex and I both commented on how weird it was to be able to eavesdrop again (even accidentally!) after so many months in France. You really get used to tuning everything out and being in your own little world, so it was very weird to sit next to a businessman loudly speaking English on his cell phone, or to hear obnoxious English teenagers swearing at each other on the tube. On second thought, maybe living in France isn's so bad after all... ;)
Anyways, back to the point. We flew to London from the Caen airport, which was really convenient because the local city bus goes straight there. The airport is tiny (
almost as small as the airport in Bathurst, NB) and has only one flight to London per day. Unfortunately, the small airline we flew with landed at an airport outside of London, and it was quite a trek to get to Jessie & Kevin's apartment in Northeast London on public transit. However, the view from the plane was worth it; although most people prefer taking the Chunnel (i.e., the train) to London, it was pretty cool to fly, because a) we got to see an aerial view of Caen when we took off, and b) at one point you could see the coasts of England and France at the same time (we made sure to sing "I see London, I see France..." at that moment). I wanted to take a picture, but unfortunately I had turned my phone off for the flight, so you'll have to imagine it!
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| Alex walking to our tiny plane on the tarmac |
A fun anecdote from the plane: being a true French woman now (and since we had to be at the airport at 12:30pm and had both come straight from work), we packed a baguette and some
camembert for lunch. This was smart planning, since the tiny airport didn't sell any food. However, I didn't think about the fact that we'd packed a butter knife in our carry-on luggage until the flight attendant approached me in the midst of pulling out my lunch ingredients. The dialogue went something like this:
British (Or Irish?) steward: "Um, you have a knife there, Missy".
Me: "Oh, oops. I didn't think about it... I just wanted to make lunch."
Steward: "Didn't you have your bags scanned?"
Me: "Yes...I guess they missed it." (Ironically, they had hand-searched my bag because of my metal water bottle, but left Alex's bag untouched even though he was the one carrying the knife.)
Steward: "Well, you're not allowed to have knives on airplanes, and I wouldn't be doing my job unless I took that away from you...but do you want to spread your cheese first?!"
Me: "Yes, please..."
Steward: "Ok, I'll be back. Save me some cheese."
I then proceeded to spread my smelly cheese in embarrassment, as other English-speaking passengers gaped at us. Couldn't that have at least happened in French, where I could've played it off like a clueless foreigner? (The steward later apologized for having taken a knife from our set, since he was forced to give the cheese-covered knife to airport security. I sometimes wonder what they do with all the stuff that gets confiscated...)
While in London, we had a great time visiting with Jessie & Kevin. Some highlights included:
- A long walk on Friday night along the Thames River (I got 24,000 steps that day!) to see all the big sights; the buildings were particularly beautiful as the sun began to set.
- Going to the Victoria & Albert Museum to admire fashion and jewellery, and the Natural History Museum to see the dinosaur exhibits (we could've spent approximately a hundred more hours in each of those museums, and they are only two of the many museums in the city!) Good thing the museums in London are free, because we definitely want to return next time we're there!
- Seeing a late-night screening of a quirky movie at an independent theatre where you could enjoy cake and cocktails in your armchair :)
- Chowing down on delicious pub food (we forgot how good fried chicken, real burgers and sweet potato fries were!), a true English breakfast, and amazing Mexican food - three types of cuisine that are truly hard to come by in France. [At the Mexican restaurant, Alex ordered an extra spicy habanero quesadilla, which lived up to its name. All three of us sampled it to make sure Alex wasn't exaggerating. He wasn't. He later said the heat had moved downwards from his mouth and that he felt like someone was punching him in in the stomach lining. Ouch.]
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Alex grumbled about having to take this selfie as we arrived at Jessie & Kevin's street,
but I liked all the cute English row-houses! |
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| A view of the bridge from the Thames River |
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Jessie & I and a pretty view of the Thames
(Please note the large lattes available in London - so unfair!) |
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| A walk along the Thames River |
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| Jessie, Alex & I in front of Big Ben at night (we forgot to take a picture with Kevin...oops!) |
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| And of course, Buckingham Palace |
5)
Yesterday (March 8th) was Le Carnaval de Caen.
Every year, the city of Caen hosts a huge carnival with thousands of students. They all dress up as if it's Halloween and flock the university campus and downtown core (maybe because Halloween isn't a big thing in France, and every country needs an excuse to dress up on one day of the year!). For Alex and I, this mostly meant having to walk instead of taking the tram, as the students were blocking all the public transportation routes. However, it was fun to see all the French students dressed up in costume, drinking in the streets and having a good time. I've never seen so much colour or so many smiles among a group of French people...it was truly remarkable. Interestingly, there were security guards at the entrance of every building on campus, and signs on the cafeteria and student centre saying "no alcohol inside today"; since drinking open alcohol in public is legal in France, they needed to post these signs in order to tamper the drinking in certain areas of campus. (Since the French normally don't binge drink, the
Carnaval results in a bit of a mess for the city, with ambulances being called, damage being done, drunk students causing disruptions to transit, and businesses being closed for the day. I heard that the first report of alcohol poisoning happened at 10am. I think the French would benefit from a trip across the pond to visit their British neighbours, who know how to handle their liquor.)
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| A line of students in costume, walking across campus |
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| Costumed students frolicking in the field on campus |
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| Trying to walk through a mob of costumed students |
6) As for
other life updates, as Alex mentioned, I got my wedding dress (and he's right, no details - sorry!) and we're doing some more wedding planning, so it's coming along slowly but surely. French class is going alright (some days are better than others, and although I'm still at the bottom of my class, I think I'm slowly improving), but I'm counting down the weeks until school is done. (I think maybe I'm just
a little sick of being a student). I'm really enjoying work - it's fun to be the teacher instead of the student for two mornings a week, and since my students are motivated adults rather than bratty kids, teaching is pretty fun! Other than the adventures described above, we've been keeping busy with work and school, seeing movies (we
may have snuck into a second movie one time when two movies were playing back-to-back in English...) and visiting the local market downtown on Sundays. This weekend our friends Jane & Joe are visiting from Strasbourg, and we're excited for some more local adventures!
~~ Various cat photos to follow ~~
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| Jessie's adorable cat, Minnie. She's quite skittish around visitors, but liked to spy around corners at us. |
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| I miss Igor. Look how cute he was when he napped on the couch... |
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| ...and on me. *Sniff*. |
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| But Huawei (aka Pretty Girl) is pretty cute, too... |
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| ...and she enjoys Igor's window perch! |
À bientôt!